AS Michael indicated, it all starts with max RPM's compared with what they are rated at. If you can't get there, you either have a performance issue, too big of a wheel or a rough bottom. Not all clean bottoms are smooth. This creates drag and increases slip. Your slip number seems high, but, it could be caused by several issues. Too large of wheel is one of them. I would start with WOT and also find out what factory wheels were. If you get the build card from the Mariners Museum it will have prop numbers on it. You can then look in the CCCC archives for the CC prop # chart and find out what diameter and pitch they were. Good luck. I hate prop issues because there are so many variables and few silver bullets.

Hi Tom. Great to hear from you. I was at the boat Thursday and walked by the spot where Classic sat and thought, man I miss Tom! It will be great to see you. Let’s get you into another CC. Thanks for reaching out. Don’t be a stranger

Mark. Looks really good. Nice work. Give us a shot of her loaded

Hi Mark. If you look at my pic. I took a washer and ground it to be that size of the broken piece. I then ground everything to fit flush at the break. I drilled the new piece and tapped the old piece for a #4 bolt. JB welded it all together. Not pretty but works great. The stainless washer piece is actually stronger than the original brass. There are people talented enough to recreate the entire piece. I am not one of them 🤪

Send a pic. Let me look at it. I had to McGyver mine

We use ours all the time. It’s not in the way. Like Chris says. Leave it. It will keep the palmetto bugs out. 🤪

454 chebys (I know I spelled it wrong). Have a low mount starter by design. You can not see them in a marine installation because of all the add on stuff. To simplify service, Mercury and Crusader had bell housings cast to mount starters up top on the bell housings. This got the starters out of the dark wet bowels of the bilge and made them accessible.

One screw on the bottom of the rail allows the other piece to be removed. One in each end. Both my center section and one of the ears on mine were broken. I chose to repair the In tube portion and make a new center. It works as new.

Which piece is broken? The one in the tube or the center secti I made a new center. The club has prints.

Mark, Which hinge does yours have? Stainless rail or mahogany stern rail?

Great question. I am sure they made changes year to year and model to model. I am not sure which model is shown or which you have. If the model required more stern lift due to equipment or cabin placement on the hull, they could add them or delete. Just a guess.

Congrats on the repower. I believe it wise to align first on the hard and then again in the water. If you run her awhile and then do it after things settle, I guess that is a good idea. I would not run more than an hour at most and not hard. Flex couplers are really nice but no substitute for proper alignment.

Contact Sandusky paint and varnish. Sandusky Ohio. They have all original formulas and can help you decide. Good luck

Lee, That is a great site. They are very affordable. We should have do a quick little article on actuators and have them as a resource

Cool idea. 42’s and 47’s have them. They are worm gear driven. Are you thinking ram style? I have not seen small ones

Sometimes called wedges. A way of adding rocker to the hull bottom. Also aids in keeping the bow down. Very cool. Thanks John

Bert. Thank you for the post. What commander is this in?

Kent. Just in case. What engines are in her

Looks great Chris. I am jealous. I have been putting this off. Need to find a set like that. You found the gem!

Hi Jackie. I saw your post on FB. The wires in the tan co ax are original wire. They have been re routed to that location for some reason. cC used the same wire for 110 and 12 v. So be careful until you know which the are. Remember on the 12 v side black is hot on these boats. This is counterintuitive to to days standards.