The raw water thermostat temperature was determined to prevent deposits in the cooling system. Closed cooling would not have the problem and a higher more efficient temperature was used.

Look at 2005 Rendezvous photos, my file, about page 6 is a foredeck picture of the hatch. There's also an article with pictures of "removing the wart" somewhere in the archives. If a hatch was lost or damaged a replacement of 3/4 inch plexiglass ala Searay etc might have been a result.

What model, length etc? A number of posts on 41/410 tanks, amazing what you find when you look.

Years and years ago I came by a VW with a leaky gas tank. My go to counter guy promptly gave me an epoxy kit for leaking fuel tanks! Fortunately the tank was easily removed. Sand, scour, wipe with solvent and apply! The bug returned to the road for many future repairs.

https://www.pumpcatalog.com/oberdorfer-pumps/n211d-series/

You might blow out both lines, either air or water, should be able to your breath. Any restrictions try using a blower type shop vac. The pump may also have a replaceable cam on the perimeter.

In the past I've answered this but a quick summary, I made a dam surrounding the location for the Puck, left the thru hull in place, made runs on the same GPS track with each and didn't find significant differences. I cleaned the area for the Puck, bonded it to the hull and at the next haul out another hole in the hull was eliminated. Tim FXA350030H

Tim, I have posted this in the past but can't retrieve anything logical using a tablet. Fall back is geometry and pie are square and cake are round.

I think I would leave ignorance to its own devices, accept a valid title and get the hull card etc. from the Mariners Museum. The Museum documents will take precedence over the title with anyone knowledgeable and for most others it's just a pretty boat.

For about the first 50 years of my life the drinking water hose was the one connected to the spigot, unless it was a rubber hose, a determination quickly made. This usually was followed by removing the hose, washing your mouth at the spigot then drinking. This usually was enough education to preclude repetition. Maybe it's my ancient perspective but most water leaks that got attention were in the hose. I do have the white hose for the camper but seldom use the city, 30+ feet away from supply, inlet for the boat. My theory is, our water is delivered by tanker to our storage tanks and pumped to the slips. I fill my water tank at the end of this trail. 2 ounces of chlorine bleach is a good precaution along with using bottled water for ingestion. This may go a long way to explaining the martini competition in Michigan City.

That separation is an issue that could begin a depressing voyage of discovery. While more spacious in the living area I am not sure if, that design, is user-friendly on the mechanical end. I think Scott Anderson might have information.

I presume this is the new style 38? I would put it pretty far down my list.

Matt, do you have a "batt par" button at the helm? If not then a significant change in later models.

Gotta follow the big wires from the battery boxes. Aft seat of the dinette, port kick panel by the helm and all the other locations you've already checked?

This came up on the old forum and my thoughts were on the wrong side of fact. The shaft strengths are very nearly equivalent and may have marginally favored the bronze.

Chris used 140F claiming that was saltwater compatible.

To press the shaft off the coupler I use longer bolts and place a socket on the shaft and tighten until it comes out.

I have used the Teflon coated flax and found almost no weeping and no significant, >10F rise. Emphasis on almost.

I've had coils fail (open) after a period of operation then work after cooling. Easy to swap and check.

Delta T for HX and manifold/exhaust?