Those are pretty good numbers for that boat. Probably a good way to go, the Crusaders were rated at 270 hp which is significantly better than the CC SBCs which were rated from 210 - 235hp.

Like Mike said, it is a tight fit with the center rise exhaust manifolds on the 454s because of the shaft angle (15 degrees) that CC used and the off set drop of the Paragon transmissions. If you have Velvet Drives on your 454s, that will drop the height 1.5 - 2 inches. You may get better fuel economy with the 454s because they won't be working as hard. I cruise at 16 - 17 mph and only turn 2600 rpm with the 2.5:1 reduction gears. The P34s were rated for 260 hp, but my cruise speed is under that according to the published hp curve.

I'm pretty sure it was Stewart Warner that made them for CC in those years.

If it is a 327 F (starter & flywheel in back of engine), maybe easier to access by removing riser. I have had good luck with Arco (so far).

I have been using Rotella 15W40 (1100-1200 ppm of ZDDP) in my CC454s. I like the multi-viscosity for the cold starts that we get in early spring (MI). I may switch to Driven GP-1 15W40 semi synthetic next oil change based on flat tappet testing by Lake Speed Jr..

When turning your engine over, place your thumb over the sparkplug hole on the #1 cylinder. You should hear/feel a "pop" when at TDC because the valves will be closed. Should be able to see correct mark in the window.

The rotor should point toward the #1 cylinder when at TDC.

Can try Newark Electronics at newark.com

Thanks Jeremy, will pick some up.

Do you think 4200 is good to seal the screws with? The screws next to the butt joints are the ones that stripped. I was thinking of tapping the new holes after repairing them and using machine screws for a better bite (next to the butt joints anyway).

Hi Mike, The paint was a good match for the gel coat, do you remember what you used? I think I'll try to fill the stripped holes with bits of fiberglass cloth & epoxy then drill them out again. Thanks, Tom

350s are small blocks - so you have to spin them faster to get the HP. The horsepower curve peaks much earlier on the 454s and the torque curve is much higher from the git go all the way to the end (no substitute for cubic inches!). The 454s will likely reach 300HP before 3000RPM.

Yup, mine are 22/26s.

In Michigan, where boats are stored on the hard for 6 months of the year, it is a good idea to pull the impellers out in the fall and store them in a plastic bag. It keeps them from taking a set and forces you to inspect them.

Sounds close, mine is a 35SC with 454s & 2.5:1 reduction gears. I cruise at 16-17 mph (planning nicely) at 2600rpm if that helps. Is that a vacuum advance on the distributor in the picture?

That is frustrating! While you have it out, though, it is a good time to inspect/replace the damper plate and consider a transmission overhaul. Also, those starters (especially the port ones) are getting hard to find - so could be a good time to swap out the bell housing to one that would support a more current starter. On a positive note, that port engine could go another 50 years when done. I have Mike's old 35 SC - the 35s & 36's were great boats!

270 Crusaders would be conventional flywheel aft 350s and not the CC 350Qs. A high ZDDP oil like Valvoline VR 1 in either 30wt or 10w30 is preferred for flat tappet engines. With the temps in Maryland, you can probably stick with a single viscosity oil. Driven GP-1 is another great marine oil with high ZDDP and is available in several multi-viscosity options. No other additives are needed if using one of these products. Can't go wrong with WIX oil filters.

Possible causes of overheating at low rpm would be a bad water pump impeller, slipping water pump belt, or air getting in the supply side from a leaky sea water strainer, loose hose connection, or leak in supply hose. Start with easy things first like checking hose clamps, belt tension, and checking impeller.

Raw water cooled or fresh water?

I would think you would want to flush out transmission a couple times with fresh fluid anyway, so may as well install a new cooler when in is empty.