The cables are usually Teleflex/Morse (Now Dometic) series 33c. What you have to do is find the engraved number on the jacket near but not at one of the two ends of each cable. This will tell you the length of the cable. Each cable will be a different length so get all the numbers from each cable. Then they are available everywhere! Lee

Amazing work!! She looks great and as for the stern light it’s perfectly legal!

Rotella T4 15/40. No additives needed due to the zinc content already in rotella.

You have the info needed to find. Are you certain the gauge is only 60 max? Most are 80 which is why I ask. One other thing. Single station or dual? You will need that as well to get the right part.

Those are the original engines. They were Marine Power 454. Marine power was the provider in the mid 70s and later. I bought the starboard engine starter from Ward (for a diff boat) and he said they had the other in stock as well. Good luck

Call Ward Marine in Winthrop Mass. they had one last week.

@Whitney Pillsbury It never had one. We would have kept it and refurb.

My heart will always be with that boat. Hope you have many years of enjoyment out of her.

A 35 with 454's or modern power is your best option in my opinion. Yes Paragon is a fantastic transmission,

Steering cables are generally easy to find. Here's what to look for. On the plastic jacket (red or black) There will be a number burned into it. That is the actual part number and length of the cable. You will find this near one end or the other (Like 6" back from the end). Usually a morse cable, which then became Teleflex, which is Now Dometic. But if you can get the number? You can cross. Good Luck!! Lee

Might be a job finding those. But any decent fab shop can make them. 3/16 Stainless and they were flat with a slight bulge in the middle to drain water out Hope This will help you.

Well documented in the archives about carb drought as I call it. There is a fix but requires a pushbutton, fuel pressure gauge, and an electrical (Marine) Fuel pump. Search by author: Morland and Cowles. Both authored stories on these mod upgrades, but yes, it's normal. If you don't want to go this route, I usually 1) Spin engine 3-5 secs without pumping. This gives a chance for the carb to fill. 2) After the first spin, Pump 3 times and then spin again. Usually starts. With the mod upgrade, you push the button and watch fuel pressure, when it rises up to between 4-5 psi, Let go and start the engine.

Jeremy hit the nail on the head! The key is WHERE is the moisture readings? If on bottom is it painted? And how long was it out before the readings were taken? Most quality surveyors will use a phenolic hammer to sound areas of concern. If on decks or hatches I just literally posted an article (that soft spot) about this before I saw your post. It will give you some more insight.

Guessing by age of boat: Either 875 or 1475. But @JamesFrens is correct in explanation!

@Whitney Pillsbury guess what project used sapele? 😎

Do some research on Sapele. It is a good replacement for Mahogany and if it rots it wont be in this lifetime. The muffler stands I built for a project used this after a local woodworker educated me. Hope this helps you!

@Robert Bradley thats the mission of this club. Pay forward what you know and share experience. Happy to help!

The other thing to remember is the boat is probably out of kilter being blocked and stands on the hard. Doors dont work right windows etc when they are out of their element. I had a 38 that the sliding doors wouldnt hardly move on the hard As Jeremy says do a thorough inspection and measuring of the strut and comparing to your other side and be sure it wasnt tweaked in the past and not remedied. Then if it all checks out do your final alignment IN THE WATER where the boat is in its “relaxed” state after a day or two. If youre still that far out you’ll have to haul back out and see whats going on. Coupler clearance specs after both halves are mated are .003-.005 with a feeler guage around the diameter of the mating surface. Hope this helps you.

Look under Galley sink. Probably old style household fuses. Tyats where the 120 stuff usually is on a 31.

Im totally guessing here but sense maybe you’re thinking of keeping heat in and cold out? If so there are 2 different options I see often. One is pipe insulation rolls available at your local home depot or Lowes. (See pic) The other depending on gap size is swimming noodles cut to fit. Hope this helps? 🤷‍♂️