The photo is a bit blurry but it appears to be a Glendinning. If you take some clear photos and send them over to Rick Panish at Glendinning I'm sure he can sort you out.

Both of those switch panels relate to the searchlight. The upper two toggle switches change upper or lower helm control. Both switches down and the searchlight operates from the lower helm, flip them up and you get control from the upper helm. The lower panel has a joystick for direction, the rotary knob on the right is a rheostat to control the speed of movement and the three position toggle switch in the middle is generally setup with SPOT-OFF-FLOOD to control the bulb.

Chris, I pulled the windshield opener out of garage storage and have it readily accessible in the basement and I took photos and measurements. Please send me an e-mail address via PM and I can send you over the info.

Chris, I can get you measurements later next week when I am back at the house. This unit is designed to open a single center window like our Commanders have. Each arm of the opener goes to the bottom corner of the opening center window. The Pacemaker/Egg Harbour window configuration was slightly different as they did not have the small fixed pane below the larger opening pane, but it will work. I had it sized out for my 381 Catalina which has a very similar window arrangement to the 42 Commander. Here are a couple of other photos I found online from a Pacemaker Alglas 48 CPMY that has the same windshield opener:

Chris, I have a powered windshield opener that came from a late 1960's Egg Harbor , it may work for your application as it was for a center opening windshield like the 42's have. It has a stainless steel cover and seems to be in great shape. I was going to use it on my 381 Catalina (which had a really difficult to access center opening windshield panel) but never got around to installing before selling the boat and moving up to a 47 Commander that has the factory window opener. Years ago I looked at a late '60s Pacemaker Alglas 43 Motor Yacht that had the same style windshield opener as the Egg Harbor unit I have. Thankfully I happened to snap a photo of the helm area that showed the windshield opener as installed: If you're interested please make me an offer, I would love to see it put to good use and free up some space in my garage.

Mark, If you remove a cast iron muffler and do up a reasonably detailed sketch for Centek, they can determine if one of their existing designs fit or they can make you custom mufflers out of fiberglass as "drop in" replacements for the original cast iron versions. Note that Marine Muffler Corp as mentioned in the 2003 post Charlene Pike attached is no longer in business. However, beyond Centek there is also Soundown and other custom muffler manufacturers that can be found via Google.

Char - thanks for moving this back over to the forum general discussion. Michael - I was concerned about the exhaust hoses on my 47 but thankfully they checked out just fine. My boat was almost exclusively fresh water and then spent a decade in storage waiting for a repower, which I think explains the good condition of the hoses.

These are normally raw water bypass systems to dump some of the cooling water overboard in an effort to reduce exhaust backpressure. My 1973 47 with Cummins VT8-370Ms had these raw water bypasses. I understand only some of the 47s with 8V53Ns have them, possibly 1970 and newer. The way the system worked on my 47 is that raw water exited the engine cooling system into a 2" tee with a valve on the bypass side and the other side open to the exhaust mixer. There was an instruction plaque on the starboard side of the engine room with instructions to open the bypass valve until exhaust backpressure was within engine manufacturer recommended range. For reference, the valves on my boat were fully open on both sides. The bypass discharges were 2" and the hoses going to the exhaust mixers were 2", so it could be assumed that approximately 50% of the raw cooling water was dumped overboard instead of going into the 6" exhaust system. When I repowered the replacement engines pumped significantly less raw water so the bypasses were no longer needed. I converted them to exhaust bypasses using a 6" to 2" tee and ran separate 1/2" raw water telltale streams out the sides immediately below the original outlets. Photos I posted are of the exhaust system and raw water bypass as it originally existed on the starboard side prior to repower.

Hi Heather, I sent you an email again. Maybe it's going to your spam folder?

Heather, I sent you an e-mail regarding the steering wheel.

Steve, I have a custom winter cover on order from Genco for my 47 Commander. Not cheap but considering the cost of shrink wrap where I am in Ontario, it is about a 4 year payback and the cover should last at least 10 years. Genco makes the cover in zip together sections so it is easy to install. My cover will be in 5 or 6 sections. I know a guy with a Hatteras 53 that installs the cover himself. https://www.gencomarine.com/winter-boat-covers/

Heather, Do you have any of the old steering wheels? In regards to marketing beyond the Commander Club Classifieds section, I like to start with Kijiji and Facebook Marketplace, the related groups on FB and then finally eBay as a last resort.

As Tim mentioned the final "R" in you hull number means the boat was built at the Roamer plant, which was located in Holland, MI. I would start with printing out the "deciphering the model number" as Tim suggested in the interim but also ordering the hull card as Char suggests, it generally takes a couple of weeks to get. It's fun getting the build sheet to see where the boat was originally sold and with what options and it's also a nice way to support the Mariner's Museum.

Thanks for the recognition, I was happy to contribute! I have learned so much from the club, what a great group. It's hard to believe my first post on the club forum was almost exactly 24 years ago - Mon Mar 6, 2000 9:26pm.

I only have the pair, but I did notice that another pair are for sale on eBay from a Florida based seller. Based on the description they appear to be the same size as the ones I am selling (11.75" ID intended for 10" fenders). https://www.ebay.com/itm/265782867920?itmmeta=01HPYNYFCH1JV57G3C822EAAX1&hash=item3de1e4b7d0:g:MLsAAOSw4api0xFo&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4MtyN%2BseT8t7Jc2WL1k6nbZavs8HRwGkmVs751txFTNmubWJ4iq%2FMdN6IT%2FLK773Pm89vC2jA2w75fvcod0bhclZVdr%2FD9gwl9U%2BuEgQkZ%2F8ItAxDnqHW33UIjQNmLMw55P8IUzEYM6VAnp2TGDxVm8GuBEosCBny2X02GzDde5JVw3VNdRAcMGhXQkoxXMOUmnPNENnhlDIyAl4Giz1AHqElgY5f6SwT9FUkK74kMIXnzqfiw4Nwr1cREHxTT8pJW58DZyn%2F6HxEmgrdIsLqqj1r2rnzw6CLkSAUqeTil02%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6r2-dW3Yw

From what I have seen in boats of this era, it is likely that your two 50A inlets are 50A 120VAC, not the more common "modern" 50A 240VAC. If you have a single 50A 240VAC outlet at your dock you will need a splitter adapter. As Lee mentioned, I would expect the inlets to be labeled something like "Line 1 - Main" and "Line 2 - AC".

I can understand why Chris-Craft may have stopped installing glass at the front of the cabin. My 1973 has the glass but we keep the curtains closed all the time as we have back cushions on the bow seat that remain in place all season. There seems to be more than enough light in the salon with the front windows covered.

Whitney, from reading posts here on the Commander Club over the years and I think more specifically from Jim Rivas, here is what I understand: 1967 short fiberglass hardtop only 1968 long wood hardtop optional 1969 long fiberglass hardtop optional 1970+ long fiberglass hardtop only