Question: Fridge, Electrical Help
Now that we are really starting to use the boat (42 aft cabin) as it should be - out on the water and not tied to a dock... we are going to replace the 110v el-cheapo (but decent looking) fridge.
I've looked at a few brands and sized, but given our cavity size (24 1/4" W, 34" H, 26 1/2 D), I've settled on the Isotherm Cruise 130 Drink. The non-stainless version will allow me to put a panel on the front (mahogany), and we don't use a freezer, so going the "drink" route is perfect.
My understanding is that this fridge is an AC/DC model, so it will preference 110v, but switch to 12v after one minute of not having the AC power.
I believe that I have a fuse open on my original 12 volt panel, so I'm thinking of making a run from there to the fridge. It's about 30 feet (down the wall to under the salon floor, over to the starboard side of the boat, up the starboard side to the galley, over to the fridge cavity and up to the fridge, with about 5 feet to come up through the floor and allow the fridge to be pulled out with the wiring attached).
So.. my questions for the electrical gurus out there (of which i am definitely not):
1) Should I be running from the 12v panel, or try to run closer to the fridge?
2) What gauge wire should I be using if I'm going from the original 12v panel?
That's it for now... thanks in advance for any other thoughts on this project/upgrade!
C.
1967 42 Commander
"What If..."
I’m doing virtually the same thing, a new Cruise 130 Elegance will draw off a new dedicated house battery in the front of the engine room. I’m using 10 gauge wire. A new dedicated DC-to-DC charger will keep the battery charged when under way, and the fridge will run on shore power the rest of the time. I will add a toggle near the fridge as well.