My Beer budget is draining in the offseason and I need to clean out my storage so I am offering the "Yard Sale" to Club members first. I'm not putting prices on any of it. I'm not trying to get rich. Taking offers (and add shipping at cost) and you could have some "really necessary" spare parts for your 427 If we make a deal. Here's the list. I'll also post in classifieds. Pictures of all avail if you text me. First come first served. Text me directly or call 704-287-3914. 1 set of rebuildable 427 CC Heads 1 CC 427 Intake 1 set of CC 427 specific flywheels. (left and right indicated) Would prefer to keep as a set. 1 427 CC Springplate for the above flywheel. (only 1 tho) I also have a set of shaft couplers for 1-3/8" Shafts to bolt up to a paragon. Let me know... Lee

I just put one up in the classifieds as a good "donor/parts item" if it fits your Commander. Off season beer money is getting low! =)

I have a complete electrical panel out of a 36 Commander. The only two switches missing are the 2 generator starting switches (Preheat and Start) This panel is complete and was working when pulled. It uses the old CC Push pull breakers, It has transfer switches and meters for both AC/DC. It is a great SPARE PARTS piece for someone with the same panel on their boat. I'm not looking to get rich off this stuff. Make me an offer no matter how low and include shipping cost in your offer and it can be yours if we make a deal. See pictures for details. Text or call: 704-287-3914 Lee.

I am in search of an intake for a 350Q. The range is from the 327Q to 350Q but must be of the Q sequence. The older 283/307Q will not work. I am NOT looking for one to resell. This is for MY PERSONAL boat. The intake on my engine was repaired previously, but is internally cracked between the cooling well and the Intake ports. I have already texted Earl the pearl but no answer yet. Any leads or help would be greatly appreciated. While we are discussing it, has anyone tried or successfully done a conversion to a F series from a Q in a 23 Lancer/Commander? The reason I ask is simple. Sometimes Chris used the Q series engines because they were on the shelf available when the F was In short supply. But the reason Chris made the Q engine was mainly to lower the height on certain models (31 Sedan for Instance) If it would fit In my 23, I could do an F install because the Intake Is not special. Anyone tried this? Any input?? Thanks! Lee

So every Sunday I write about things that are important to me. I share them with people who could use it. This Sunday it was about online scams. Our beloved Commanders have a LOT of obsolete parts. Scams are rampant tho. Take what info you want and learn from my mistake. Sunday Musings: Scams... It happens to the best of us!!  Take time to read, share, and learn from my lesson  Yes... Even those who always do the extra research. Me included. I was scammed this week buying a part for a client's boat. A part that was obsolete, no longer made, and not available anywhere. So I put out a feeler on a trusted forum and got an almost immediate reply from a member saying “try xxx company” Figuring the member actually knew the company and had done business with them, I did a quick look at their site on FB, because it was tagged in the message from the member. Real site, lots of parts posts, and good interaction. Nothing negative on the surface, so I messaged them. The response was “we have one good used one. $150.00 and we will cover shipping.” So I set up payment which was requested as Apple Pay or Zelle. Still nothing abnormal, yet... Until Apple Pay said “receiver is not registered with Apple Pay”.  First red flag.  Switched to Zelle. Which by the way is one of the most secure avenues as far as account info besides Apple Pay if you didn’t know. Sent the 150.00 to the number given. ( A southern Cali Number) which really isn’t out of the norm even with a company in Missouri. I know people in NC who have Phone numbers in Ohio. So this didn’t bother me. I figured all along “If I lose 150.00 in a scam, I won’t lose sleep. I’ll just be mad, and learn from it.” Little did I know I was about to learn.  I received a picture of a small USPS box with my shipping info on it, to confirm they would ship the box with tracking info. There was an immediate “Oh S**t” came out of my mouth.  Anyone with any engine knowledge knows that a fuel injection rail for a big block V8 engine won’t fit in a small flat rate box unless you cut it into many small pieces, and even then I don’t think it will fit.  Second Red flag.  What commenced over the next several hours was a back and forth of “we do clean good business here. We ship all over the world with happy clients.” I wasn’t biting. I’d been had. and I knew it..  A simple Google search revealed this company didn’t even exist. I should have done this first.  Third red flag. I lost.. Dangit...  But they don’t give up. I received an email from a cargo shipping company overseas wanting 100.09 for shipping insurance and cargo charges and that if the part received was undamaged my money would be 100% refundable.  So after locking the vault down. (and I did) I simply replied. “Keep it. I’m prosecuting the seller for international fraud and theft.”  Never heard another word. Imagine that.   So a $150.00 part, shipped in a Small USPS flat rate box from Missouri, with a Cali phone for Zelle, needed another $100.00 for shipping insurance on a cargo ship from Asia.  Wow.....  Lesson Learned. I share this info and these posts to help others. You can take it or leave it, but the intent is to help you. Don’t get in too big of a hurry when excitement of finding the impossible comes to light. Do the research. Do a simple Google search on the company. Read the reviews, TALK with a live person on the phone. Confirm for yourself, they are real, the company is real, and your gut is not doing butterflies.  Had I done a little more research other than the facebook page, and the word of someone I don’t know? I’d still have 150.00 in the bank. Now we are back to find this part for the client.  That is my wish and prayer for this world today.

Wanted to take a moment to publicly say "wow"!! There was no doubt in my mind last year that @Whitney Pillsbury would be the Absolutely right fit for our PR Department. The new issue, if you haven't seen it yet? Amazing!! Great Job Sir!! and thank you for taking the torch!

OEM vs. Aftermarket? No.... How about Quality vs Price? I wrote this article and figured it fit well here also. It's been as much of a debate in the boating public as Ford vs Chevy. Everyone has an opinion and we know where that leads to. But let’s dive in a bit on this debate and try to help you make the best decisions for the long term health of your investment. What is OEM?  Simply put it’s the “Original Equipment Manufacturer” of parts used in your boat. You’ll notice, if you read closely “manufacturer” there? It’s absolutely false that your engine manufacturer makes every single part in their engines. Just because the box or the part has the engine name on it, is not proof that they made the part. But for instance if you buy an impeller for your generator and it says Kohler or westerbeke, or some other manufacturer on the box? It “could have” been made by another company who actually made the pump itself.  Think of it this way. When you go to the store and to the milk aisle, there are several brands of the same Vitamin D whole milk right there in front of you. And then there is a “store brand” of the same milk as well. The store brand is almost always cheaper than the popular brands. Is it different? Is it better or worse than the others? It’s all Vitamin D whole milk right? Well maybe, and maybe not. But did the grocery store make that milk? Not in most cases. Instead they entered a contract to have their name labeled on the milk because it meets “their requirements” and represents their marketing strategy.  Back to parts.  There are several things to consider when using parts on your boat. First and foremost. If your boat is under factory warranty you are obligated as part of the warranty terms to use ONLY OEM parts, and service intervals. We often ask this question when being contracted for service because some warranties require a servicing dealer perform and document the service interval. For instance, a Yamaha Outboard has specific service intervals and requirements and will void the engines warranty if those guidelines are not followed. We will turn away and refer the client to the nearest servicing dealer explaining this reason to them.  For those engines that are not under any further warranty, we will gladly service with high quality parts and exceptional service and education.  Do we use aftermarket parts? In a lot of cases yes. But aftermarket is a technical term. As in the references above, and even on others. We use Impellers that are made by the pump manufacturer not the engine brand. An interesting thing happened one day regarding this story. The client requested “Volvo Penta OEM parts only be used on his boat. We will gladly do this for any client who requests it. When we went to pick up the Spark Plugs required for the job. We opened the sleeve labeled Volvo Penta with their part number and found eight AC Delco Plugs with part numbers available at any parts store. Want to guess what the price difference was? It was significant.... We had to take pictures to prove to the client we honored his request.   Now, When it comes to fluids and filters? It’s always prudent to use OEM as the oils and filters are the lifeblood of the engine. As one commercial used to say “You can pay me a little more now, or a lot more later.” Price should not be the determining factor for the parts we use. It is one equation but not THE equation. It's far more important to do your research if you don’t want to pay OEM prices. In some, not all cases, You’ll be able to find out who makes the filters for your engine. Now I’m not talking about a cross reference to other brands here. I’m talking specifically about what manufacturer MADE the OEM filter you have. One good general example of this not related to boats is Napa Gold Filters. Did you know they are not made by NAPA? No, they are made by WIX (which is actually Mann-Hummel Corp in Europe)  see how many names just popped up there? M/H makes Wix which makes NAPA Gold (and only the GOLD) filters. Puts the NAPA name on it and ships it out. Another item, like the milk subject again? Store brand oil.... It’s all oil right? No, it’s not. Not even remotely close to the same. Years back by accident I learned from a counter guy that a specific store brand oil was actually made by Valvoline. A large supplier of many store brands. I don’t know if they still do or not, but it’s just another case of identity confusion. But I wonder who makes Volvo Penta brand oil? It’s a good question and I’m sure a well hidden secret. Belts,Hoses,Manifolds and Risers,Plugs and Ignition parts, Water pumps, and the list goes on. Do you think West Marine makes their own batteries? No DEKA East Penn makes them and outs the West Label on them.  My point on all of this is simply wrapped up this way.  1) Take into account your warranty status and the terms.   2) Take into account and research who the real company behind the “curtain” is (the real manufacturer)  and 3) make sure the parts used meet all requirements of your engine manufacturer before saving a few dollars?  Or just stick with OEM if you’re not sure. That’s our policy at Glassic!

Reason #4,368 why I dont trust nor believe in engine room heaters as a substitute for proper winterizing in the cold geographical areas. I Had a call yesterday that a clients engine room heat in their Rinker was not working when they went down to do a periodic check on their boat. After investigating that ALL outlets on the starboard side were out, I found Heater was plugged into a GFI outlet and had to go find the one that had the pushbutton (Usually in the head). First thing, if it's a gas boat outlets are not allowed and will be a failure of a survey. Diesels are allowed tho. Dont know when the GFI breaker popped. She thanked me for resetting and showing her where it was located and sent me on my way. Just dont trust em… but we only do what the client asks. Remember. You are trusting anywhere from 30-60k of iron and an upcoming season to enjoy with a 300.00 heater that requires power. It's your decision.... Lee

On Sunday Lakeview Marina on Lake Dallas, TX had a boat fire which reportedly according to the youtube video says was a Commander. From what I can see in the video it would be in the 42-47 range IF it's a Commander. Thankfully it's reported that no injuries and only one other boat were involved. Hopefully it was not one of our memebrs but I suspect if it's a Commander it is. Prayers up. The investigation is ongoing to the cause, but it burned to the waterline so doubtful of the results if any. Every year we see this around the country when cold weather shows its' ugly head. Here are some tips and advice for those that want it: 1) If you are using an engine room heater it must be USCG approved (Not just UL certified) and NOT attached to a drop cord but plugged directly into an outlet. 2) Space Heaters should never be used when away, and if used above decks in cabin areas AGAIN never plugged into a drop cord but directly into an outlet. 3) As the people in Texas found out a couple years ago? When a hard freeze is to come, Sea Valves to engines, Gen, and Heads should be turned OFF... The number one cause for the number of sinkings they had were due to the strainers busting glasses which allowed unlimited water inbound. The video of this fire is all over the 'net and Youtube. Please be safe and use common sense. Draining engines is always better than running heaters. ALWAYS... Hope this helps someone. Lee