1982 360 Commander - Exhaust Manifold

I replaced mine two years ago with the Barr CHVA-1-84s. They make 3 or 4 inch risers to go with them and my CC dumps were 3.5 inches - so had to make a small step down at the crossover pipe. The Barr's were slightly lower than the Mercruiser types so they gave a little more deck clearance plus they could be plumbed from the front and back allowing use of the existing hoses. You will have to relocate your oil filter bracket and fuel filter bracket if they are attached to the manifolds.

Hey Tom,

Thanks for the information; if I recall, did you also install a direct drive impeller on the starboard side (do you have part number); the RW intake hose to opposite side of engine is rather long; thanks - Greg

Yes, I installed a Johnson F6B-9 crank mounted pump. It really shortened the length of hose to the raw water pickup and seems to pump more water through the engine at idle. It is also much easier to service the impeller. CC soldered a regular street elbow into a Tee where the the water from the pump went to the engine oil cooler and split to the thermostat housing. I took the elbow out and soldered a straight piece of copper tubing into the Tee and used a hose with a molded elbow to clear the alternator belt. You will also need longer bolts for your crank pulley and spacers (bolts are smaller diameter than mounting holes on pump flange) to mount the pump. My engines are raw water cooled, so may be a different setup if yours are fresh water cooled.

thanks for the info; yes very tight space to get to the current pump; another question out of curiosity since we have similar boats; have your fuel tanks ever been replaced; have some deck issues in the cockpit; if I ever decide to pull the deck wondering the lifespan on these tanks; thanks -

My tanks are original. They look good from the outside and never had an issue with filters loading up - so I am knocking on wood!

Awlways good to hear that 0001 is in good hands. We are all just caretakers. Hope to see her again and the improvements you have made.

0001?

FDA350001H is the first CCC 35 Sport Cruiser was made and built at the Holland plant. It was ours at one time for about 15 years until we jumped of the cliff and purchased one of the last 47's built.

Hey Mike, Make sure you stop by next time you are in SE Michigan!

So, I pulled one manifold off engine, wow - very heavy; I have it in garage and am trying to evaluate if it is blocked up; knocked out the "freeze brass plugs" and found that there are bolts behind them which are rusted tight; I am trying to make sure that these are in fact bad before spending over $3k to replace them; I see a lot of them still in service and the boat was always in fresh water stored inside; a local mechanic that rebuilt my carbs said that I should investigate the spark plug wires possibly being in close contact; he said that it would cause the left side of the engine to run hotter; it is strange that it is both port side manifolds only -

Harpurs Marine at one time had a really nice kit for those with deck clearance issues. I installed one of these kits on a 410 and it was absolutely plug and play. It uses Mercruiser style Center riser manifolds with Harpurs adaptor for the risers and fiberglass tubes, hoses and clamps, to bring the discharge down and out as the original style mans did. Contact them for details. http://www.harpursmarine.com/

Hey Lee,

Thanks for the info on Harpur's Marine; I called and spoke with "tom" there, knowledgeable engine guy; he is insisting that I do NOT have a manifold issue, as he has never seen these manifolds go bad on a freshwater ONLY boat; he asked or me to check for some type of blockage in the water flow system; I did find one blade of an old impeller at the entrance to the cooler yesterday (not sure if enough to inhibit water flow? He also is going to send me more information on the pressure valves located near the back portion of the engine; says these can stick sometimes - only a month or so to launch time and need to get this resolved...

@Greg Tom is a treasure of knowledge! He is right to send you to those pressure reliefs. Many posts on these in the archives. Those are designed to maintain a 2-3psi in the raw system to insure the block, heads, and manifolds stay full of cooling water. You might find another impeller fin lodged in one of them holding it open. Good Luck!!

Any restriction at the cooler is bad. There is a Tee where water is split between the coolers and the thermostat housing (check the thermostat housing for debris too). A blockage at the engine cooler will divert more water to the thermostat housing and reduce the water going through the engine oil cooler, the transmission cooler, the pressure relief valves, then back up to the exhaust manifolds. The balance of the 140 degree water going through the engine then the front of the manifolds will be different between the ambient temperature of the water entering the back of the manifolds via the pressure relief valves. It is a good idea to use an infrared temp gun to check the temp of the transmission coolers when running every once in a while. I usually back flush my coolers once a year too. I made a hose fitting with a garden hose adapter - just pull the hose from the bottom of the pressure relief valve housing and insert the hose fitting. Then pull the hose (1 & 1/4 I believe) off the front of the engine oiler. Run an extra piece of hose from the cooler into a 5 gallon bucket & turn on the garden hose. Easy to do & only takes a few minutes.

Thanks for the info Tom; I just ordered a direct drive RW pump for the starboard side engine, if you ever get the chance you could send me a pic of yourconfiguration since will be new to me installing; thanks -

The Sherwood pump had the discharge hose going to the tee via a regular street elbow that was soldered into the tee. I had to heat that up to remove, and then solder a piece of straight tubing to get past the alternator belt. I purchased a hose with a molded 90 degree elbow to connect with the pump discharge. I used a new wire reinforced hardwall supply hose from the pickup to the pump. Much easier to service the impeller and a much shorter run to the pickup. You will need to get longer bolts for the pulley and spacers for the larger diameter holes in the pump flange to make sure it is perfectly concentric (or swap out the pulley for one that has the corresponding detents to the pump flange).

Thanks Tom; these should help guide my install

@Tom Where is the support bracket? You are trusting the hoses to support the pump from turning if it locks up. I ask this because I had to have some made to fit the 454s. There is a tapped hole on the bottom of the pump for a bolt and the other end bolts to the block next to the timing cover with two bolts. Just beware because if it locks up and the hose tears off its a sinker hose.

Hey Tom; do you know what you used exactly for this configuration; thanks again -

You will need to get longer bolts for the pulley and spacers

While mine are 8.1's , we did a conversion on it to ditch the factory water pump that's hard to service with a crank driven water pump .

Mercruiser made it very hard to do this by installing their own crank pully that conveniently doesn't accept any of the typical crank driven pumps available.

I had custom crank pullies made with slightly increased ID (without changing the OD) to accept a johnson pump as well as the brackets to hold the pump in place.

an extra idler pulley was fit in place of the removed factory water pump.

I will try to pull a bolt & spacer to measure this weekend. Lee is correct that it is a good idea to use a support bracket on those pumps. The commercially available brackets force you to locate the tapped hole at 6 o'clock which may not be the best routing for the hoses (mine sits at about 4-5 o'clock). I may make a bracket from bar stock or angle iron to tie into the old CC mounting bracket.

thanks again tom; I appreciate your effort to assist;